Into the wild
Alaska, The Great Land. It's pretty great. We made it back in one piece. That's even greater.
Lows:
Before we left Anchorage for Denali, we provisioned, as there are no grocery stores in the Denali area. So we spent a good 2 hrs doing that, and then about 1 hr outside of Anchorage, one of the windshield wipers just FLEW OFF. On the highway. So we shrieked and then realized that thank goodness, it's now just stuck under the other wiper. Meanwhile, it's still raining and we have to keep the wipers (or actually wiper, singular) moving. So one is wiping, the other is just scratching a semicircle into the glass. Ok ok. Pull over into a gas station, put the wiper back on. Get on the road again, cursing our crappy car.
About 10 minutes later, Em goes, "What's it doing?" Now the rubber blade part of it is slipping off, so it's all floppy. Pull over again, slide it back on. 10 minutes later, again. Ok, we can't keep doing this. We have maybe 3.5 more hours to drive. So we decide to just buy a new wiper. But of course, that doesn't work either because it's not the right size or something. So THEN we ask the gas station for duct tape to TAPE the thing on. Realize that it's still raining while we're doing this. Wonders of wonders, the duct tape works. And it held up the entire time. All hail duct tape!!
Highs:
We took the bus into Denali National Park to go hiking and saw lots of wildlife along the way. Caribou and moose and bears, oh my! So right when we get there, we're inundated with bear warnings. We're warned by pamphlets, guide books, rangers, and then our bus drivers. What to do in case of an attack. Only they don't call it an attack. They call it "an encounter." As in "if an encounter is imminent." Emily read me an excerpt that said, "if the bear begins to feed, fight back vigorously." You bet if a bear begins to FEED UPON ME, I shall fight back with particular vigor. They stress that your best protection is to not suprise a bear - one should warn it of one's presence by talking, clapping, and/or singing.
So, after spotting two grizzlies on our way into the park, we were then dropped off to WALK AMONGST them. Ok, we're more than a little wary of this now. And Denali's a "trail-less wilderness," which basically means we wander around willy-nilly completely alone, did I mention amongst the bears?? We took the warnings to heart, singing hours and hours of songs and loud-talking. Ok, we yelled at each other. We had meaningless conversations at the tops of our voices (henceforth known as our BEAR voices, ask Em for a demonstration). I learned the 50 states in alphabetical order, in verse. Also, Emily doesn't know any words to any songs. Except for the 50 states songs. That one she knows, oh she KNOWS.
Due to our efforts, we spent a couple days there spotting no more than some harmless caribou (which high-tailed it away - what, you don't like our singing?) on our hikes and discovering a true wilderness.
In Seward, we hiked along Exit Glacier up to Harding Ice Field, which feeds into a bunch of other glaciers. This was maybe the most miserable, best hike I've ever been on. We ascended 1,000 ft per mile. This was an 8 mile hike, but it took us 8 hrs! And it was pouring and the trail was extremely roughly cut. If one could call it a trail. I call it rock climbing. But it was FUN.
On the way back down, with Emily engrossed in song (I think it was "The Ants Go Marching"), I suddenly spotted a mother black bear and 3 cubs maybe 100 feet (we had also learned that a safe distance between you and a bear is 300 yards) in front of us. Ironically, Em was too involved in the aforementioned song to notice. I SAVED HER LIFE by grabbing her and pulling her back. She promptly DESERTED me by scurrying away to the other side of the stream we had just crossed. Thanks, Friend. To her credit, I think she tugged gently at my jacket before leaving me. We then stood there for 30 minutes watching the bears meander along our trail, finally deciding to cut across a valley instead, loud-talking the entire time, as we didn't want to come up behind them. Pretty amazing stuff.
I took pictures. Oh also, we're both wearing the same clothes all the time. Turned out, we each had ONE Alaska-appropriate outfit. Well of course we WASHED them. Sheesh. And I'm pretty sure I changed my shirt everyday.

